HFGA-TX-EU-01Draft · v1

HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard

The HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard (HFGA-TX-EU-01) sets hemp textile fiber grades for the EU market, aligned to EU variety rules, REACH, and EN ISO test methods.

Designation
HFGA-TX-EU-01
Jurisdiction
European Union
Category
Textiles
Issued
2026-07

Status — v1, issued for HFGA Technical Committee review. Regulatory citations are drafting references and are not legal advice. Do not cite in a purchase contract until this standard reaches Published status.

1.Scope and application

This standard specifies the quality, processing, chemical, and traceability requirements for industrial hemp bast fiber placed on the EU market as a textile feedstock — whether grown in the EU or imported. It mirrors HFGA-TX-US-01 clause for clause so that a single supply chain can satisfy both.

  • Applies to: retted hemp straw, decorticated line fiber, tow, cottonized and degummed fiber intended for textile use and supplied to or within the EU.
  • Does not apply to: hurd/shiv for construction, hemp grain and grain products, or finished yarn, fabric, and garments.
  • Conformity is assessed per lot and attaches to the lot ID, not to the supplier.
  • Imported fiber is eligible. A lot conforming to HFGA-TX-US-01 satisfies Clauses 5, 6, 8, and 9 of this standard directly; Clauses 4 and 7 must be re-evidenced against EU law.

2.Normative references

  • Regulation (EU) 2021/2115 — CAP Strategic Plans Regulation, Article 4(4): hemp varieties and the 0.3 percent THC limit.
  • Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH), in particular Annex XVII restrictions.
  • Regulation (EU) 2019/1021 — Persistent Organic Pollutants.
  • Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 — Textile fibre names and labelling.
  • Regulation (EU) 2024/1781 — Ecodesign for Sustainable Products (ESPR), Digital Product Passport provisions.
  • Directive (EU) 2024/825 — Empowering consumers for the green transition (environmental claims).
  • EN ISO 2370 — Determination of fineness of flax fibres, airflow method.
  • ISO 5079 — Textile fibres: determination of breaking force and elongation of individual fibres.
  • EN ISO 6741-1 — Determination of mass loss on drying (moisture).
  • ISO 1130 — Textile fibres: sampling methods for testing.
  • EN ISO/IEC 17025 — Competence of testing and calibration laboratories.
  • HFGA-TM-01 — Gravimetric determination of residual shive and foreign matter.

3.Terms and definitions

The definitions of HFGA-TX-US-01 Clause 3 apply without modification (bast fiber, hurd/shive, retting, line fiber, tow, cottonized fiber, lot, conforming lot), with the following additions.

Additional definitions

TermDefinition
Common catalogue varietyA hemp variety listed in the EU common catalogue of varieties of agricultural plant species and eligible under Regulation (EU) 2021/2115.
Economic operatorAny natural or legal person placing the fiber on the EU market, as used in EU product legislation.
Digital Product Passport (DPP)The structured product data set required by the ESPR, to which the Clause 8 lot record maps.
ParcelThe geolocated agricultural parcel on which the crop was grown, as declared for CAP area aid.

4.Feedstock eligibility

For EU-grown fiber, all of the following shall be met at harvest. For imported fiber, the equivalent evidence from the country of origin plus items 2 and 5 shall be provided.

  1. 1.Grown from certified seed of a variety in the EU common catalogue, with the official seed labels retained per Regulation (EU) 2021/2115 Article 4(4).
  2. 2.Delta-9 THC content of the variety not exceeding 0.3 percent, with the Member State control result retained where sampling was performed.
  3. 3.The parcel declared under the applicable CAP area-aid scheme, with the parcel geolocation recorded against every lot.
  4. 4.Only plant protection products authorised for hemp in the Member State of production applied, within their authorised conditions of use.
  5. 5.Straw baled at 15 percent moisture or below and stored under cover until decortication.

Note — Hemp is not a commodity listed under the EU Deforestation Regulation (EU) 2023/1115, so no EUDR due-diligence statement is required. The parcel geolocation in item 3 is recorded anyway — buyers increasingly request it in the same format, and it is the cheapest field to capture at source.

5.Fiber grade classification

Grades EU-A, EU-B, and EU-C carry the same thresholds as US grades TX-A, TX-B, and TX-C. EN ISO methods are used in place of the ASTM equivalents; results from either method family are accepted.

Grade requirements — determined at 65% RH, 20°C, conditioned per EN ISO 139

ParameterEU-A — long lineEU-B — blend / short lineEU-C — technical nonwoven
Fineness (dtex, EN ISO 2370)≤ 6.06.1 – 12.0≤ 25.0
Mean fiber length (mm)45 – 12025 – 45≥ 15
Length CV (%)≤ 25≤ 35Report only
Tenacity (cN/tex, ISO 5079)≥ 45≥ 35≥ 25
Residual shive (% m/m, HFGA-TM-01)≤ 1.0≤ 3.0≤ 6.0
Foreign matter (% m/m, HFGA-TM-01)≤ 0.5≤ 1.0≤ 2.0
Moisture content at delivery (%, EN ISO 6741-1)8.0 – 12.08.0 – 12.0≤ 14.0
Colour (Hunter L*, minimum)≥ 60≥ 55Report only
Typical end useWet-spun and long-staple dry-spun yarnsCotton-system blends, cottonized fiberNeedle-punch felt, composites, insulation

6.Retting and decortication

Clause 6 of HFGA-TX-US-01 applies, with the following EU-specific additions.

  • Permitted methods: field (dew) retting, controlled tank or water retting, enzymatic retting, and steam explosion.
  • Retting effluent shall be managed in line with the Urban Waste Water and Industrial Emissions regimes as transposed in the Member State of processing; discharge of untreated effluent to surface water disqualifies the lot.
  • Chlorine bleaching is not permitted. Peroxide and ozone chemistry only.
  • Process chemistry shall be screened against the ZDHC MRSL where the processor already operates to it — alignment is encouraged and recorded, but not required for conformity.
  • Retting degree recorded against the HFGA visual reference set and reported with the lot.

7.Restricted substances

EU restricted-substance requirements replace, rather than supplement, Clause 7 of the US standard. Compliance with REACH Annex XVII is a precondition, not an option.

Restricted substance list (RSL) — EU

Substance classLimitBasis / test method
Delta-9 THCVariety limit 0.3% per Regulation (EU) 2021/2115; not detected in delivered fiberHPLC
REACH Annex XVII substancesAs restricted — including azo dyes releasing listed amines, and CMR substances in Appendix 12Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006
SVHCs on the Candidate ListDeclared above 0.1% w/w, per REACH Article 33Supplier declaration
Chlorinated bleaching agents (as AOX)Not permitted at any process stepEN ISO 9562
Formaldehyde (free and released)≤ 16 mg/kgEN ISO 14184-1
Lead / Cadmium / Mercury (extractable)≤ 0.2 / 0.1 / 0.02 mg/kgEN 71-3
Chromium VI≤ 0.5 mg/kgEN ISO 17075
Pesticide residuesWithin EU MRLs for hemp under Regulation (EC) No 396/2005EN 15662 (QuEChERS)
PFASAs restricted under the POPs Regulation and Annex XVII; total organic fluorine < 20 mg/kgCombustion ion chromatography

8.Traceability, chain of custody, and DPP readiness

  1. 1.Lot ID format: HFGA-EU-<country code>-<year>-<producer ID>-<lot sequence>, physically tagged on every bale.
  2. 2.Field record: seed variety and official seed label reference, parcel geolocation, planting and harvest dates, THC control result where sampled.
  3. 3.Process record: retting method and degree, decortication site and date, refining or bleaching chemistry.
  4. 4.Transfer record: chain-of-custody document at every change of ownership, naming the economic operator taking title.
  5. 5.Mass balance reconciling input straw to output fiber within ±3 percent.
  6. 6.The lot record is maintained in a structured, machine-readable form so that its fields can be emitted directly into a Digital Product Passport when the ESPR delegated act for textiles applies.
  7. 7.Records retained for five years from the date of final sale, aligning with the longer of the EU documentary retention periods likely to apply.

Note — DPP readiness means the data exists in the right shape at the right granularity — it does not require the supplier to operate a DPP today. The five-year retention in item 7 is deliberately longer than the US standard's three years.

9.Sampling, testing, and verification

Sampling per ISO 1130, from a minimum of 10 percent of bales with a minimum of three bales. Testing by a laboratory accredited to EN ISO/IEC 17025 for the method.

Test schedule

PropertyMethodMinimum frequency
Cannabinoid contentHPLCPer variety and season, per Member State control regime
FinenessEN ISO 2370Once per lot
Fiber length and uniformityEN ISO 2370 Annex / image analysisOnce per lot
TenacityISO 5079Once per lot
Moisture contentEN ISO 6741-1Every bale batch at delivery
Residual shive and foreign matterHFGA-TM-01Once per lot
Restricted substances (Clause 7)As listed in Clause 7Once per producer per season, plus on change of process chemistry

10.Conformity claims, labelling, and mark use

  • Permitted claim form: "Conforms to HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard (HFGA-TX-EU-01), Grade EU-A" — naming standard code, version, and grade.
  • Fibre naming on downstream products follows Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011: the fibre name is "hemp", with blend composition stated by mass percentage.
  • Environmental claims made alongside the conformity claim shall be substantiated and specific, per Directive (EU) 2024/825. Conformity with this standard is not, by itself, a sustainability claim.
  • The HFGA conformity mark is licensed at no charge to lots with a complete Clause 9 record — no membership, audit, or per-tonne fee.
  • The claim attaches to lot IDs, never to a company, facility, or brand.

11.Relationship to the US standard

The two textile standards share one grade architecture so that fiber, test reports, and lot records travel across the Atlantic without regrading.

Grade equivalence

EU gradeUS gradeEquivalence
EU-ATX-ADirect — same thresholds, EN ISO and ASTM methods treated as equivalent
EU-BTX-BDirect
EU-CTX-CDirect

Where the standards deliberately differ

ClauseUS (HFGA-TX-US-01)EU (HFGA-TX-EU-01)
Feedstock law7 CFR Part 990 licence; certified variety registerEU common catalogue variety; CAP parcel declaration
Test method familyASTMEN ISO
Chemical regimeEPA tolerances + HFGA RSLREACH Annex XVII, POPs, EU MRLs
LabellingFTC textile rules downstreamRegulation (EU) No 1007/2011 fibre naming
Record retention3 years5 years, DPP-structured

12.Governance and revision

  • Maintained by the HFGA Standards Technical Committee, with EU-based grower, processor, mill, and laboratory representation.
  • Issued for a 60-day public comment period before ratification; every comment receives a written disposition.
  • Reviewed on a three-year cycle, or sooner where EU law changes — in particular the ESPR textile delegated act and any PFAS restriction entering into force.
  • Grade thresholds are changed only in lockstep with HFGA-TX-US-01, to preserve the equivalence in Clause 11.
  • Comments to standards@hfga.io.

About the EU Hemp Textile Standard

What is the HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard?+

The HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard (designation HFGA-TX-EU-01) is a technical standard from the Hemp Fiber and Grain Association covering industrial hemp bast fiber placed on the EU market as a textile feedstock, whether grown in the EU or imported. It defines three fiber grades, permitted retting and decortication practice, REACH-aligned restricted substances, and a lot record structured for Digital Product Passport use.

What fiber grades does the HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard define?+

Three: EU-A long line fiber for wet-spun and long-staple dry-spun yarns, EU-B blend and cottonized fiber for cotton-system spinning, and EU-C technical fiber for felt, composites, and insulation. The thresholds are identical to the US standard's TX-A, TX-B, and TX-C; EN ISO test methods are used in place of the ASTM equivalents, and results from either family are accepted.

Can hemp fiber grown outside the EU conform to the HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard?+

Yes. Imported fiber is eligible. A lot already conforming to the HFGA US Hemp Textile Standard satisfies the grade, processing, traceability, and testing clauses directly; only the feedstock clause and the restricted-substance clause need re-evidencing against EU law — EU variety and THC rules, and REACH Annex XVII in place of the US list.

How does the HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard handle Digital Product Passport requirements?+

The lot record is kept in a structured, machine-readable form so its fields can be emitted straight into a Digital Product Passport once the ESPR delegated act for textiles applies. That is readiness, not a live DPP obligation — a supplier does not have to operate one today. Records are retained five years, longer than the US standard's three.

Is the HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard final?+

Not yet. It sits at Draft status (v1) for Technical Committee review, so every threshold is a proposal and the regulatory citations are drafting references rather than legal advice. A 60-day public comment period precedes ratification, and grade thresholds only change in lockstep with the HFGA US Hemp Textile Standard to preserve equivalence.

Comment on this standard

HFGA-TX-EU-01 is maintained by the HFGA Standards Technical Committee. Growers, processors, brands, and laboratories are invited to submit comments, test data, or proposed revisions — participation is free and open.

Cite as: Hemp Fiber and Grain Association, HFGA EU Hemp Textile Standard (HFGA-TX-EU-01), v1, 2026-07.

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